Three versions of the quad are linked above. Add about 100g for the battery and you’ve got enough weight left to run some HD cameras! Its dry weight is about 100g for the analog version and 125g for the DJI version. The beauty of this 3″ quad is that it comes in well under 250g. It’s got a bottom-mount battery, which some people say isn’t as good for freestyle. Even better: they sell bind-n-fly versions!Īlthough the Avio is a more race-focused frame, I’ve selected it for this category because its raw flight performance is so exceptional. Even before 250g was a thing, AvantQuads was designing high-performance, lightweight racing and freestyle frames. Then a commenter on my livestream reminded me of AvantQuads. It seems like most of the big manufacturers have switched to 3.5″. I struggled to find a great 3″ bind-n-fly to fit this category. An Insta360 Go might work on the 3” builds. Even a “naked GoPro” puts most of these builds over the 250g limit, and wouldn’t be durable enough for freestyle bashing. If you plan to crash a lot, the 2Fiddy may not be for you, but if your focus is purely on flight performance, it’s the best experience I’ve ever had under 250g.īy the way: forget about carrying a GoPro in this category. The responsiveness, acceleration, and sharp cornering are ridiculous. The durability is not as high as a 3” or 3.5”, but it’s not made of glass either. Obviously, Tommy can’t defy the laws of physics, but it doesn’t feel super-floaty like other sub-250g 5” I’ve flown. To get the weight down, you had to give up too much in terms of durability, and the disc loading was so low that the quad was super floaty and not fun to fly. I always felt that 5” sub-250g was pointless. The final entry in this category is the Ummagawd 2Fiddy, designed by Tommy Tibajia. To get a 3.5” build under 250g, smaller motors are typically used, which means less torque on a larger prop, so getting a perfect PID tune may be more difficult. The disc loading is just a bit lower than Ciotti’s 3” build, but flight time and power are improved due to the larger props. A 3.5” quad can be built out to about 240 grams. Ciotti likes to build 3” freestyle quads around 230-250g with a “hybrid” style camera (a single camera that records HD video on board while also acting as an FPV camera).” The weight-vs.-prop-area (also known as disc loading) is as close to a mid-weight five inch as possible, which produces similar flight characteristics. So part of the decision is how hard you intend to crash and how willing you are to put money and time into repairs.Īhren Ciotti (CiottiFPV) says 3” is king for sub-250 freestyle. Flight characteristics will improve as the props get larger, but durability will go down. The next question is: What’s the best prop size for this category? There’s no one right answer. Builds like 95mm Cinewhoops, which fly really poorly for freestyle, will also not be covered on this page. Builds like Tiny Whoops and Toothpicks, which are significantly less than 250g will be covered on another page. So the goal of this page will be to get as close to 250g as possible without going over. As soon as you get off the throttle, it stops moving, because it hasn’t got the mass to overcome air resistance. One of the biggest problems with sub-250g freestyle is that, as the quad gets lighter, it doesn’t “fling” like a freestyle quad should. Whether you live in the USA and don’t want to register your quad, or you live in a country with a near-total ban on any drone over 250g, this page is for you. This page is for all the people who love to rip, but have to stay under 250 grams.
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